The idea of under and over exposure for green screen vs talent is more a misconception based on a few things. So regardless of how you light your talent, you should always light a green screen first for proper hue and even exposure, then turn off the lights and light your talent for the back plate. See the material in your hands or on the wall? The idea is to simply make it glow, so it is represented as close to the color it is without too much light which will wash the color towards yellow or too little which will make it darker. It's not really pure green (556 is pure green) but ever so slightly yellow, the idea being it doesn't need a lot of light to saturate properly so the slight yellow pigment allows it to act more like an iridescent color and hence is easier to light to our eyes. Very simply green screen is about hue, PERIOD! If you took the time to use a true green screen paint or material, then you have a material that is designed to reflect 550 nanometers. I'd write more but a guy named Walter Graff already did a great write up so I'm pasting his comment from here: the freedom to light the talent however you want. Hitting the IRE sweet spot usually means you've already eliminated spill before shooting anything and gives you. Many times there are things out of your control and you may not be able to hit that target but scopes still give you important information on what alternative things you might have to do to compensate for that. Ideally you want the scopes to show you've hit the IRE sweet spot. The simplistic version is set up your screen, light it, check for evenness of the lighting and take a test shot then drop it on a timeline in an NLE to check the result with scopes. Nope I'm pretty sure is talking about during production or splitting hairs again, pre-production even.
Since my #1 wishlist items for HF3 and 4 were implemented, I have high hopes. Since your monitors are probably wrong this brings us back to scopes. Note that the android keying app you linked in it's screenshot says "Green Screen must be extremely even for good keying. You probably can't trust your computer monitor-even if it's "calibrated," since most consumer computer monitors are not actually capable of displaying the full sRGB color range, much less NTSC, EBU, or REC 709 (all widee than sRGB). Note-youbcannot trust your camera viewfinder/monitor to provide an accurate picture. Monitors and thing like the Blackmagic video assist or Atomos Ninja Blade/Shogun, but, any kind of external monitor with a waveform display is essential to correctly judge exposure (histograms help, waveforms and parades are better) for greenscreens, or just in general. I don't remember if it was you or thinking about using a smartphone as an external monitor where we got into full.
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